poets don't win titles

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A model walks the runway for the Gucci show in London. Photo: IC
Gucci's Alessandro Michele unveiled on Wednesday a loud and proud ode to the 1980s on the opening day of the latest Milan Fashion Week Herre Nike Air Presto Sko Gul Blå Tilbud , with big bangs, square suits and enough sequins to drown a disco.

Michele burrowed further into his love for the bookish chic that has led the once-flagging house to enjoy white-hot success since he took creative control in 2015.In a smoky near-darkness pierced by flashes of light, Gucci showed off a SpringSummer 2018 collection that, along with fringed foreheads, had plenty of large round glasses Herre Nike Air Presto Essential Sko Sort Blå Udsalg , satin and even a striped and shiny track suit.

The idea guiding the show, according to Michele's notes, is a refusal "to turn the page and stubbornly dwelling on a narration that consolidates on the beauty of the show."

That meant a runway, best described as Atlantis on a foggy night, set among massive sculptures of some of humanity's greatest symbols including a smiling Buddha and Thoth Herre Nike Air Presto Flyknit Ultra High Grå Udsalg , ancient Egypt's long-beaked god of magic and wisdom.

The clothes were confident in their embrace of the past, including a satin outfit trimmed in sequin stars that looked like something out of David Bowie's wardrobe.

There was also a brown three-piece suit that you could almost imagine in a faded Kodachrome photo - except that the model wearing it had slick white shades and hands encrusted in rings.

"It requires courage to slowly linger; to stay with care," Michele's notes said.

He certainly did that and took a bow to the applause of celebrities like Salma Hayek - whose husband Francois-Henri Pinault heads the French group Kering that owns Gucci.

The show was Gucci's first since Kering announced a pledge earlier this month to ban ultra-thin models from its brands' advertising and runways. Judging by appearances, it seems to have kept its word.

The power of zips

Milan kicked off with shows from smaller up-and-comers, including Japanese designer Atsushi Nakashima Herre Nike Air Presto Sko Sort Tilbud , who unveiled bright colors, silver ponchos and clothing with lots of shiny zips.

For Nakashima the zips are a reminder of humanity's better impulses in an uncertain time that has seen North Korea fire missiles directly over his homeland.

"This is the reason for the collection... putting together, understanding each other to have more communication," he told reporters through a translator. "We can connect with each other."

Milan's opening day closed with a fresh face from China's fashion boom, Angel Chen. The product of London's prestigious Central Saint Martins College Herre Nike Air Presto QS Sko Sort Tilbud , a hub of design talent, Chen only began showing in Milan this year.

The collection she sent down the runway was prepared for the unexpected, with lots of bright yellow rainslicker-looking jackets and models wearing hoods cinched tight around their faces.

There is still plenty more to come over the next three days left of Milan's runway strutting.

Expectations are building for British talent Paul Surridge, who on Friday shows off his maiden collection since being named creative director in May of Roberto Cavalli, known for its sexy rock'n'roll attitude.

Husband-and-wife team Luke and Lucie Meier are presenting their first designs on Saturday since being tapped in April as creative leads of minimalist stalwart Jil Sander.

The Meiers Nike Air Presto SE Woven Sko Hvid Udsalg , a rare married duo of co-directors, come from Dior for her and Paris-based menswear brand OAMC via iconic streetwear label Supreme for him.

Very good times, for some

"Lucie and I work together very naturally," Canadian Luke Meier told Vogue in June of his Swiss-born wife. "We have had an open dialogue about the approach to design for over 15 years and have often spoken of working together one day."

Newcomers to the Milan calendar also include the-sirius, a young Seoul-based label known for futuristic designs Dame Nike Air Presto Sko Hvid Tilbud , which indulged its ultramodern urge with a show Thursday on the campus of Milan's Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology.

But it would not be fashion week in Italy's capital of clothes and accessories without the kings and queens of the multi-billion euro luxury goods industry like Fendi, Ferragamo, Versace, Moschino and Prada.

These European behemoths are seeing sales jump after years troubled by the triple whammy of a slowdown in Asia, currency volatility and customers staying at home after a string of terror attacks in Europe.

The rebound has been led by houses like Gucci which saw its sales in the first quarter of 2017 grow at their fastest pace in 20 years. But the flip side is labels like Prada that just cannot seem to remember where they put the secret sauce.

By Oliver Trust

BERLIN Nike Air Max Plus TN Ultra Sko Rød Sort Danmark , Sept. 14 (Xinhua) -- Disappointment was evident on Peter Bosz' face after 2012 German Champion Borussia Dortmund struggled to come to terms with a painful 3-1 defeat in their 20172018 Champions League opener against Premier League Tottenham Hotspur.

"It didn't work," the Dutchmen admitted after his tactics turned out to be a mistake. But making tactical mistakes is nothing new for Bosz when they meet English clubs.

The match against Spurs and Mauricio Pochettino, was Bosz' first ever appearance in the Champions League as a coach. It was the second important contest that he has lost against a side from England's top tier. In May when in charge of Ajax Amsterdam, he was defeated in the Europa League final by Manchester United and Jose Mourinho 2-0.

Like in spring, Bosz this Wednesday evening was unhappy with Tottenham's defensive game. Against Manchester Dame Nike Air Max TN Sko Hvid Danmark , he accused their coach of using boring tactics with far too many long balls. Mourinho struck back by saying, "In football, you have many poets, but poets don't win titles."

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